Benarasi Symphony
Benarasi Sarees for Nalli Silks, 2022
These sarees, inspired by Japanese Kacho-e (botanical and bird) paintings and woodblock prints, were designed for a collection of lightweight Benarasi sarees. These sarees feature asymmetrical motifs in naturalistic orientations and stylisation, mimicking the essence of the paintings. I attempted to break away from the typical design language seen in Benarasi sarees and experimented with new forms and unusual layouts and colours. These sarees were aimed at the mass market seeking handcrafted sarees for a reasonable price.
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Click on Images to enlarge. View the collection here.
Print by Imao Keinen
Print by Kono Bairei, titled 'Bird and red vine'
Print by Kono Bairei
Images from Official Photoshoot
All Images are owned by Nalli Silks, Shot by Sahil Behal.
This design was created with an emphasis on the border. The border has three-colour ‘meena’, or extra-weft coloured detail. The body comprises entirely of closely spaced stripes, which creates a tissue-effect, without the structural issues tissue sarees normally present.
This saree is made up entirely of vertical sections containing the lotus vine. Lotuses, although a common motif in Indian textiles, usually do not appear in this stylisation. The saree does not have a border, a conscious decision considering the visual weight of the body design. This was a statement piece in the collection.
This saree was created with asymmetrical floral motifs, a departure from traditional design vocabulary. The motif was adapted and repeated to make the borders on both sides. The composition retains the naturalistic depiction of nature as seen in kacho-e paintings, adapted for textiles.
This light blue saree showcases two alternating floral vines. The thicker vine is also used as the border on both sides. The thicker vine is woven in white silk and the thinner vine is woven in golden zari. This saree is subtle yet maximalist, re-creating the ‘atmosphere’ of the paintings it is inspired by.
This blue saree was woven in silk georgette with golden zari. The border is the focus of the design, comprising a wavy vine with floral bunches encased within each empty section. The body is filled with a smattering of small floral butis, complementing the border.
